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Home / JE Auto - Blog / How to Choose the Best Pistons for Your Engine Build

How to Choose the Best Pistons for Your Engine Build

January 29, 2025January 29, 2025 JE Auto - Blog, JE Powersports - Blog
JE BLOG 11

Pistons are subjected to some of the harshest conditions imaginable inside an engine. During combustion, they face violent explosions and temperatures reaching upwards of 1,000°F, followed by a blast of cool air during the intake stroke. On top of that, they move at varying speeds throughout their cycle while resisting immense forces that threaten to drive them straight through the cylinder wall. Even under ideal conditions, pistons are put through the ringer.

Now, imagine something going wrong in your engine–it’s like taking a sledgehammer to the piston. Worse yet, say you go with a stock cast piston in a turbocharged or supercharged build. That’s a recipe for disaster, and the wrong kind of fireworks. This is why choosing the right piston is absolutely essential for your engine’s performance and reliability. Let’s break down some of the key factors to consider when selecting pistons for your build.

Piston Material & Construction

A piston’s material and how it’s made plays a huge role in its performance and the types of engines it’s best suited for. Different materials bring unique strengths and weaknesses, and the manufacturing process–cast, forged, etc.–affects things like durability, weight, and resistance to heat and stress.

Cast pistons are created by pouring molten metal into a mold, cooling it, and removing the mold to form the basic shape. This process also minimizes finish-machining, which helps keep costs down. Cast pistons offer solid wear and thermal properties, making them a reliable and affordable choice for street applications with moderate power demands.

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Because JE forges pistons in house, they have total control over the forging process from start to finish.
456561198 498993879379773 3779424375346893886 n e1738168171651
This illustration shows how piston forgings make grain flow work for them in key areas of the pistons.

Forged pistons, on the other hand, are designed for higher-horsepower and racing setups. They’re made by heating the aluminum alloy and pressing the material into shape using a die. The forging process also aligns the metal’s grain structure, resulting in exceptional strength and durability. These pistons can handle high compression, forced induction, and extreme RPMs without breaking a sweat.

Hypereutectic pistons are a good middle ground between cast and forged options. Their name comes from their silicon content, which is greater than 12% (the eutectic point). The added silicon increases hardness and durability while improving heat resistance and reducing thermal expansion. This allows for tighter engine clearances and makes them a great option for performance builds that don’t push the limits of forged pistons.

003 forged piston 2618 vs 4032 aluminum alloys e1738169580576
A fully machined undercrown is a common sight for a billet piston. It is fully machined for absolute lightness and takes advantage of 2618’s excellent strength characteristics, however the extra machining comes at a cost.

Billet pistons represent the high-water mark of piston technology. Machined from a solid block of aluminum, they offer virtually unlimited options when it comes to adjusting strut angles, valve pocket locations, and virtually any part of the structure as you see fit. However, they do come at a premium price, which is why they’re usually reserved for professional racing and extreme builds where cost is less of a concern.

For performance pistons, the two most common alloys are 4032 and 2618. While they may look similar at first glance, their material properties are very different.

002 forged piston 2618 vs 4032 aluminum alloys scaled e1738169359787
Side-by-side, it’s almost impossible to tell the difference between 2618 and 4032 alloys. The forging on the left is 2618, while the right is 4032. While they look the same, their material properties are significantly different.

4032 forged aluminum, which is used in the SRP (Sportsman Racing Products) and SRP Pro lines, is designed for modest upgrades to stock engines and high-horsepower street applications. Its high silicon content (12%) makes it incredibly durable, offering excellent performance for both street and some racing builds. However, its reduced ductility means it’s less resistant to cracking under extreme loads. Despite this, its lighter weight and exceptional wear resistance make it a great all-around choice for many applications.

2618vs4032
Element breakdown of 2618 alloy and 4032 alloy.

2618 alloy, on the other hand, has a much lower silicon content, making it significantly more malleable and better suited for high-load, high-stress applications like those involving turbochargers, superchargers, or nitrous oxide. It’s the go-to material for JE Pistons’ Ultra Series and shelf-stock pistons, as well as the SRP Pro 2618 series, thanks to its outstanding strength, fatigue resistance, and ability to handle high temperatures. However, the low silicon content comes with a trade-off: 2618 pistons expand 15% more than 4032 pistons, requiring greater piston-to-wall clearance (which we’ll cover in more detail shortly).

Bore Size

Figuring out the correct bore size for your engine block goes hand in glove with piston selection. Bore size, or the diameter of the cylinder, directly influences engine displacement, compression ratio, and overall performance. It also determines the size of the pistons you’ll need.

JE BLOG 8

Pistons usually come in standard sizes and oversizes, often in increments of 0.010”. If your engine has a standard bore that’s in good condition, the choice is straightforward: standard-sized pistons. But this isn’t always the case, especially with older or high-mileage blocks and custom builds. Over time, wear and tear can cause cylinder walls to lose their original shape and become slightly oval. These irregularities can compromise compression and cause excessive oil consumption.

For many engine rebuilds, the solution is often overboring. This process involves machining the cylinder walls to a slightly larger diameter, removing surface imperfections, and restoring a true, round shape. It also ensures proper piston-to-wall clearance (we’ll get to that in a minute, I promise). For most rebuilds, boring the cylinder to the next oversize helps the engine reach its full potential.

Precision is absolutely critical during this process. You’ll need to carefully measure the current bore size, evaluate the block’s condition, and determine whether overboring is necessary. A properly honed bore not only allows the pistons to operate efficiently, it also minimizes wear and extends engine life.

Compression Ratio

The compression ratio is another important factor that helps determine an engine’s power and efficiency, as well as the pistons you choose. With naturally aspirated engines, you’re generally looking at higher compression ratios in the range of 9:1 to 13:1, depending on the application and type of fuel you’re using. Street engines running on pump gas generally run at the lower end of that scale, between 9:1 to 9.5:1. If you’re getting into turbocharged or supercharged setups, however, the ideal compression ratio is typically closer to the 8:1 to 9.5:1 range, which is better able to handle the extra cylinder pressure.

JE BLOG 7

When selecting pistons, you’ll need to know their compression height, or the distance from the centerline of the wrist pin to the top of the piston. Flat-top pistons are straightforward and provide a balanced compression ratio, which makes them a safe choice for different types of setups. Dished and domed pistons, however, are a little trickier. Dished pistons have a bowl-shaped top, which adds volume to the combustion chamber and lowers the compression ratio, making them well-suited for boosted engines that need to control cylinder pressure. Domed pistons have the opposite effect, reducing the combustion chamber volume and raising the compression ratio, which is great for naturally aspirated engines looking to maximize power.

The key is to make sure your piston design is a good fit with your combustion chamber layout and target compression ratio. Getting it wrong can potentially lead to problems like poor performance, detonation, or more severe engine damage.

Piston-to-Wall Clearance

As the name implies, piston-to-wall clearance refers to the gap between the piston and the cylinder wall. Getting this figure nailed down is essential to your engine’s performance and longevity. Why? Because if the clearance is too tight, the piston can seize. On the flip side, too much clearance can lead to piston slap, oil blow-by, and/or loss of power. Keeping the piston stable in the cylinder bore also stabilizes the ring pack against the bore, and a good seal there helps make sure the combustion pressure stays at the top of the piston. While new pistons typically come with a spec sheet that includes the piston diameter, it’s always a good idea to double-check by physically measuring the piston yourself.

JE BLOG 4
Most JE skirt coated pistons feature a window designed to allow the base material to be measured. The thickness of the coating is intentionally larger, and precisely controlled. The coating takes up the slack in the bore while the piston is cold and compresses as the piston reaches operating temperature.

Where it gets a little complicated is in accounting for expansion rates. There’s a lot of heat produced in the combustion chamber that gets pushed down toward the piston crown. And pistons made from aluminum alloys will expand as they heat up. But not all pistons are built the same–they expand at different rates depending on the type of material they’re made of. Their design, e.g., whether it’s a full-round or slipper skirt design, can influence the expansion characteristics, too. But it doesn’t stop there. Expansion rates are also affected by skirt thickness, skirt length, and the thickness of the piston’s ring belt, as well as the block material, any power adders, and the engine’s intended operating temperature and application (street, racing, marine, etc.).

JE BLOG 5
First and foremost, NEVER use a caliper to measure your piston’s diameter. A standard caliper does not have the accuracy to reliably measure a piston’s precision skirt. We HIGHLY recommend the use of a properly calibrated micrometer.

The measuring process itself is fairly simple: Using inside and outside micrometers, measure at the designated point on the piston as specified by the manufacturer. Usually this point is a specific distance from the piston crown, often around 0.5″ to 1″ up from the bottom of the skirt, depending on the piston design. A dial bore gauge then tells you the diameter of the cylinder bore. The difference between the two is your piston-to-wall clearance. It’s best to take at least two measurements, perpendicular to each other, in case either the bore or piston are out-of-round. Measurements should always be taken at room temperature, too, for consistency’s sake.

Power Goals & Budget

Selecting the right piston is all about matching your performance goals and budget. Whether you’re making mild upgrades to a daily driver or building a high-horsepower, nitrous-fed drag racer, the best part will deliver the results you need for your specific application.

JE PWR Ultra Series Lead Image

For example, JE developed its Ultra Series specifically for big power–think 2,000-plus hp. These pistons are treated with a spray-on ceramic crown coating to reflect heat away from the piston and outfitted with lateral gas ports for superior ring seal. Even the forging process is next level, aligning the metal grain structure perfectly around key areas of the piston for maximum strength.

SHOP ALL JE PISTONS HERE

The Ultra Series basically takes several of the best and most-requested features from JE’s custom pistons and makes them readily available for a range of high-performance platforms like LS-based and Modular Ford V8s, as well as forced-induction imports, including the Nissan SR20, Honda K20A/K20C, Subaru FA20DIT/EJ20/EJ257, Toyota 2JZ, and Mitsubishi 4G63 and 4B11T engines.

JE BLOG 13

On the other hand, if the goal is a more budget-friendly option for performance enthusiasts, the SRP and SRP Pro lines might be the way to go. The newest SRP Pro 2618 takes the lineup’s proven appeal a step further, offering increased strength and durability for applications nearing 1,000 horsepower. After all, the ultimate goal is always to get the most bang for your buck, whether you’re on the track or off.

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Post Tags: #Tech#Theory and How To

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